family, free patterns, knitting pattern, traveling afghan, yarn

Traveling Afghan: The Second Knit Square

Yes, the moment you have all been waiting for! Here is the second square of the knit traveling afghan!

What am I talking about? – you say. Well, this is a project sponsored by Lion Brand where 49 different designers from all over the world work together to make two full afghans – one crochet and one knitted. Each designer will make a 10′ x 10′ square to add to the afghan before sending it off to the next designer in a different place in the world. I am second in the knit afghan and the first square was sent to me by Alexi of Two Of Wands all the way from New York City to my tiny village in Bulgaria. If you want more information and to have a closer look at the schedules, you can get more details HERE (Got questions? Check out the FAQ section at the bottom of the landing page).

Before I tell you about my square, let me just clarify that each designers has a 2 week span to publish their square. This is because the afghan is literally going around the world and it would be impossible to predict when each person will get it. So please, try to give the next designers time to post when they are ready. I promise, they WILL share their pattern with you!

Visit my fellow makers’ blogs and get all of the patterns! I will be updating this list as the year goes by so that you can find them all in one place!

  1. Alexi at Two of Wands
  2. Me! – Continue reading
  3. Katie at The Queen Stitch

You can purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the pattern HERE.

If you’d like to buy the kit directly from Lion Brand you can do so HERE.

#MyLifeInYarn

Now, let me tell you about my square!

I see my square as a bit of a family portrait. My husband and my baby girl are by far the biggest targets of my crafting obsession so I wanted to represent them in my square. We’re also a bit of a mish mash family. My husband is a white, tall, red-haired, sports loving man from England. I am a brown, dark haired, crafts loving woman from Mexico. But we’re both perfectly average – may I dare say, a bit like a stockinette stitch? Simple, yet wonderful in its own right.

And along comes Magnolia, just brightening our lives and making everything more beautiful. She was actually born in Bulgaria, the land of roses and so far is showing only our best qualities. She, you might say, is like the lace to our stockinette.

Anyway, here’s the square. Each section representing a member of my family.

If you do end up making the square, make sure to tag me on social media (@NomadStitches) or Ravelry so that I can see it, and don’t forget to use the hashtags #travelingafghans #mylifeinyarn #travelingknitafghan #travelingcrochetafghan #travelingafghannomadstitches

Now let’s talk knitting. The square is made bottom up. It has a garter stitch border and the inside is divided by three sections: stockinette, reverse stockinette and lace. You will start by working the border and then the stockinette sections. Afterwards, you will decrease on one side of the stockinette sections and increase in the middle to make way for the lace section. When you start the lace section you can choose to follow the chart and the charted instructions or use the written directions provided.


The Essential Information

Materials

  • YARN: Worsted yarn – Sample is used 31g of Wool-Ease by Lion Brand Yarn (aprox 72 yards).
  • NEEDLES: 5 mm or size needed to meet gauge.
  • NOTIONS: tapestry needle and 4 stitch markers.
  • GAUGE:18 sts x 24 rows of stockinette st = 4’ x 4’

Sizes + measurements

The square is 10’ x 10’ (25.4 cm x 25.4 cm).

Abbreviations (US)

  • CO: cast on
  • K: knit
  • K2tog: knit two together
  • M1R / M1L: Make one Right/Left
  • Mkr(s): marker(s)
  • P: purl
  • PM: place marker
  • RS: Right side
  • Sm: slip marker
  • Ssk: slip slip knit
  • Ssp: Slip slip purl
  • Sk2po: Slip, knit two together, pass over
  • Skpo: Slip, knit, pass over
  • sl: slip stitch
  • st: stitch
  • WR: Wrong side
  • Wyf: with yarn in front
  • YO: Yarn over

Important Techniques

  • M1R: pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the next one, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Then knit into the front of this stitch.
  • M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the next one, bringing the needle from front to back. Then knit into the back of the stitch.
  • Ssp: Slip 2 knit-wise, slide back to left needle, purl two together through the back loop.
  • Ssk: Slip 2 knit-wise, insert left needle into these two stitches and knit them together.
  • Sk2po: Slip one knit-wise, knit next two stitches together, pass slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit.
  • Skpo: Slip one knit-wise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit.

I know what you’re thinking: “That’s a lot of abbreviations and a lot of important techniques!”. But don’t worry, here you can find clear video instructions for each of the stitches in this square. These squares are such a great opportunity to learn new things. It’s not like you’re making a whole jumper or shawl! I mean, seriously, 45 stitches per row! See it as a challenge and go do a happy dance once you’ve mastered these techniques!

The Pattern

It appears that I let excitement get the better of me and the first version had a few errors that I let slip by. Sorry about that. I really hope it didn’t cause you too much trouble. They should all be solved now, but please contact me if you are unsure about something. Thank you for your understanding and happy knitting!

CO 45

ROW 1 – 4: Sl1 wyf, k to end, turn.

ROW 5 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k3, PM, k17, PM, sl1, p1, sl1 (these 2 sts will be slipped purlwise with yarn in the back from here on), PM, k17, PM, k4, turn.

ROW 6 (WS): Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 7: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, sl1, p1, sl1, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 8: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROWS 9 – 14: Repeat Rows 7 and 8.

ROW 15: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k1, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, k to end, turn.

ROW 16: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

You can now continue and follow the written instructions or skip ahead to the charted instructions.

Written instructions

ROW 17: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k3, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 18: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 19: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 20: Rep Row 18.

ROW 21: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 22: Rep Row 18.

ROW 23: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, k2, YO, k1, YO, k2, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 24: Rep Row 18.

ROW 25: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 26: Rep Row 18.

ROW 27: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2, YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 28: Rep Row 18.

ROW 29: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k3, YO, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, YO, k3, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 30: Rep Row 18.

ROW 31: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k4, YO, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k4, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 32: Rep Row 18.

ROW 33: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k5, YO, k3, sk2po, k3, YO, k5, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 34: Rep Row 18.

ROW 35: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k1, (YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO, k1) twice, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 36: Rep Row 18.

ROW 37: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2, (YO, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, YO, k1) twice, k1, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 38: Rep Row 18.

ROW 39: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k3, (YO, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k1) twice, k2, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 40: Rep Row 18.

ROW 41: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k4, (YO, k3, sk2po, k3, YO, k1) twice, k3, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 42: Rep Row 18.

ROW 43: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO, (k1, YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO) twice, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 44: Rep Row 18.

ROW 45: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k1, (YO, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, YO, k1) 3 times, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 46: Rep Row 18.

You should have 4 sts of border at each side, 1 st in between the 1st and 2nd mkr and the 3rd and 4th mrk; and 35 sts in between the 2nd and 3rd mkr.

ROW 47: Sl1 wyf, k2, sl 1 to remove mkr and return st to left needle, k2tog, remove mkr, sl1, M1L, k2, (YO, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k1) 3 times, k1, M1R, sl1, remove mkr, sl1 to remove mkr, and return st to left needle, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 48: Sl1 wyf, k3, p37, k to end, turn.

ROW 49: Sl1 wyf, k2, k2tog, M1L, k3, (YO, k3, sk2po, k3, YO, k1) 3 times, k2, M1R, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 50: Sl1 wyf, k3, PM, p37, PM, k to end, turn.

ROW 51: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k6, (k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5) 3 times, k1, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 52: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 53: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k5, (k2tog, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, ssk, k3) 3 times, k2, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 54: Rep Row 52.

ROW 55: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k4, (k2tog, k2, YO, k1, YO, k2, ssk, k1) 3 times, k3, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 56: Rep Row 52.

ROW 57:

Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k3, k2tog, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3, (sk2po, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3) 2 times, ssk, k3, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 58: Rep Row 52 – remove mkrs.

ROW 59 – 63: Sl1 wyf, knit to end, turn.

Bind off on WS.

Charted Instructions

Follow the chart provided at the bottom where it says <CHART>. The rows on the chart match the rows on these instructions.

ROW 17: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, <CHART>, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, k to end, turn.

ROW 18: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p2, <CHART>, p2, sm, p to mkr, k to end, turn.

ROW 19 – 46: Repeat Rows 17 and 18.

You should have 4 sts of border at each side, 1 st in between the 1st and 2nd mkr and the 3rd and 4th mrk; and 35 sts in between the 2nd and 3rd mkr.

ROW 47: Sl1 wyf, k2, sl 1 to remove mkr, and return st to left needle, k2tog, remove mkr, sl1, M1L, <CHART>, M1R, sl1, remove mkr, sl1 to remove mkr, and return st to left needle, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 48: Sl1 wyf, k 3, p2, <CHART>, p2, k to end, turn.

ROW 49: Sl1 wyf, k2, k2tog, M1L, <CHART>, M1R, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 50: Sl1 wyf, k 3, PM, p1, <CHART>, p1, PM, k to end, turn.

ROW 51 – 58: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, <CHART>, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 59 – 63: Sl1 wyf, knit to end, turn. Bind off on WS.

Chart

The chart is read bottom – up and right to left. Remember that you will purl on every stitch of the chart when working on the Wrong Side.

Finishing touches

  • Weave in all ends.
  • Block your square.

Joining your knit squares

You can use whatever technique you prefer to join your squares, but my favorite is to simply sew them up together.

For that I will cut a scrap piece of yarn (about 3 times the length of the seam) and will thread it through a tapestry needle.

Then I will place the squares on top of each other right-side in and will hold them together in place with some pins.

After that, just sew them together with your needle, starting by making a little knot at one corner. Since each square will be designed by different people, they won’t necessarily have the same amount of rows or stitches, so try to even them out but don’t worry about matching the rows or stitches from one square to the other. You should go through both loops of the side of my square, though.

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84 thoughts on “Traveling Afghan: The Second Knit Square”

  1. Thank you so much for your outstanding traveling Afghan square! I have been anxiously waiting for it, and it is so special in design (and sentiment) on this cold rainy day in Pennsylvania (USA). I hope I can do it justice.

  2. Love it!! Quick question…are there some sm notations missing from row 7?? I got a little lost there…

    1. I am so excited to get started on this beautiful square! I was wondering if the first knit 17 on even rows 6-16 were supposed to be purls. Thank you so much for adding to this fun project.

  3. Hi Sandra! Can I ask a question? In the charted instructions, should the instruction for Row 19 – 46 be “Repeat Rows 17 and 18” instead of “Repeat Rows 15 and 16”? Thank you and I love how you translated your story into your pattern!

  4. I love the beautiful story behind this unique pattern!

    I had a question about the charted instructions…when you write: “ROW 19 – 46: Repeat Rows 15 and 16.”

    Do you mean to say repeat Rows 17 and 18 instead? Thanks!
    -Kayla

    1. The second square of the crochet afghan will be released by mammadiypatterns really soon. Only the first square (both knit and crochet) was designed by one person. Not EVERY square will have a different designer for each craft.

  5. It would be helpful if starting on row 5 you state whether to sl1 as if to k or p as well as with yarn in the front or back. Thank you.

  6. I LOVE your square! I’m actually making the crochet afghan and this project has been so fun! I’m trying to be patient for each upcoming square (although that has been a challenge….) . The good news is, I’m getting a lot of progress on my other WIPs in between blocks! 2020 is teaching me patience!

  7. It’s a beautiful square and a beautiful story. I am so excited to be participating in this. I am doing both – knit and crochet (yes, obsessive!) but I have a ton of yarn scraps to use and can’t think of a better way to utilize them! Thank you!

  8. I see a lot of comments about some errors in the pattern, will there be updates to the pattern we can download? Or do we just try and figure this out by correcting the one we have. I don’t see the notes you were talking about.
    Thanks

    1. Hi Donna. I have corrected the pattern. I really dropped the ball on this one and let the excitement and lack of sleep get the better of me. I think (I really hope!) that I’ve gotten all the little errors and that you can now just follow the patter on the website. I will update the Ravelry pattern right now as well.

      1. Sandra! Please don’t be discouraged! The square is beautiful, and really, if you follow the chart, and have a little experience, the pattern works out nicely! Thanks so much for sharing this pattern!

  9. Thank you for the video – it is SO helpful! Especially as I knit the English way (as opposed to the continental!). At first I had my stitches twisted – the video is perfect – it helped so much! I love the square!

  10. Row 50. Should it be P36 instead of P39?
    I’ve redone this part twice, and I only have 36 stitches between the 2 outside 4 knit stitches border.

  11. Row 16 “sl1 p3 sl1”? Or should it be p1-k3-p1? Or else there is a sl1 in row 15 and then sl1 on same stitch in row 16. Or may be I am making a mistake in reading it.

  12. A Beautiful Square and a beautiful story ~ but I have to say my level of frustration in the pattern which I had printed out is growing. I got to row 12 yesterday and was not happy with the results so I started over again today. I went online and saw there were changes.Started over and got to Row 16 and looking funky again. Went back online to read in the blog that there had been numerous errors I’m ready to start over again. Is it possible to get a copy of the most recent corrected pattern that can be printed out? I purchased the knitted kit through Lion Brand and was under the impression that the patterns were free.
    Thanks much

    1. Hi Debbie. I really am sorry about the mistakes in the pattern. The latest edit was done about 12 hours ago and it should have addressed all of the issues. The pattern here in the blog is correct now and it’s free for everyone. You can print it directly from here or copy and paste on to a word document and print from there. You can also buy the pdf from ravelry for $1US as a symbolic gesture of support. I hope this answers your questions

  13. Hi, Thank you for the lovely pattern. I got to row 18 and got stuck on an abbreviation that I couldn’t find, “pto”. I finally figured out that a space is missing and it should read “p to”, which makes more sense. LOL!

    1. Goodness! What a silly mistake from my part! And I thought i’d got them all. On it now! (also, pto is how I abbreviate stitch in Spanish, so I first thought that I had really messed up!! – I’m glad you figured it out though.)

  14. I guess I missed the latest corrections because I finished my square before the latest corrections so my right edge is wonky after tow 47. Because there’s no way for me to think back and fix it, I’m leaving it as is. It will be my reminder that I am human and mistakes are inevitable (for all of us).

  15. I’m on Row 27, is there a correction for this row? My count is off between 2nd & 3rd markers. Before I rip it again I thought I would ask. Thank you for your help and loving the square.

    Bethany

    1. Hi Bethany. Nope, row 27 is correct. To be honest, I find it MUCH easier to work on lace sections using charts. Maybe give it a go? Happy knitting and let me know if you have an other questions.

  16. I too love your beautifully designed square. Your story about it is special. Thanks! I had some trouble too with my printed version. Got to Row 18, and there was a strange “gmkr” printed. I wasn’t happy with the way the last few rows looked anyway, so decided to check your pattern again today. Thank you for the corrections. I will check through my printout to make other corrections. Don’t worry about the mistakes. A pattern like this this is hard to write out, and most of us understand. Perhaps you could put a note at the beginning of the pattern that says the pattern on the blog now has corrections. Others might not see it down here in the comment section. Cheers!

  17. Beautiful square!! I can’t wait to get started. 🙂 And I love the story of how you came up with your pattern. I agree, being a mom and knitting (or crocheting) go so well together! Thanks for sharing your creativity, Sandra.

  18. Hi Sandra, I’ve completed it! Mine, due to my knitting tension (which was very tight for some reason – it usually isn’t!) I have the pattern but it doesn’t look like lace. It is pretty though. And it has nothing to do with your pattern! I might make one small suggestion? If you could add how many knit/purl stitches there should be from end to end (on the “you” and “your husband” part of the pattern) it would help to know what row you are on. I accidentally picked up a stitch somewhere around row 37… I had to go back and then couldn’t remember which row I was on! So for instance, If you put the stitch count in parentheses, it would be helpful! As in, “k to marker (16)”, “p to marker (16)” Thanks for all your hard work – and I just love meeting knitters/crocheters from around the world!

  19. Hi Sandra! Your square is beautiful and it has a lovely story. But, being a real novice in knitting it is quite frustrating. I’ve been going back to your video on every row ( your video is great!). I am now on row 32 and I have noticed that somewhere around 4-5 rows down I dropped a stitch and it is just hanging there. I will need to rip out these rows. However, since there are markers,when I stop ripping, I will not know where these markers belong. As I mentioned before, it is frustrating, and I am not sure what to do. It has taken me a week to get to this point, is there a way to do this square in a simpler manner?

    1. Hi Nancy. Dropping stitches is THE WORST! It happens to me all the time. You should make note of how many sts you have on the row that you are frogging to, that way you will knit easily where the markers go. Remember that there’s always a total of 45 stitches and 8 of them are of the border. You can count the stitches on the chart to know how many you should have in between the middle markers and then you can figure out the sides. Also, pick up the sts where you want to restart before to rip back to that point. It will make it easier.
      Another solution is to just try to fix the dropped stitch without ripping back your work. There’s a ton of video for how to do this. Good luck!

    2. Hi Nancy. I think I replied to you on Instagram? I’m sorry this happened to you. Dropping stitches is the worst! I guess just try to be more careful, but I’m not sure there’s a simpler manner to complete the same pattern. Whenever I am going to frog a lot though, I usually take my needles out of the project and then weave it on the row that I want to rip back to, carefully picking up each stitch. Since each section is quite distinct and/or separated by a special stitch (like the sl sts from the middle section) I think it will be easy enough for you to figure out where the markers need to go. You can always count and figure out what row you’re in and figure out how many stitches go into each section. Hope this helps.

  20. Thank you so much for a beautiful square and for your video. At first glance, the square looks complex, but your video was so helpful. I am excited to dig into working tomorrow. Thank you for helping beginners like me learn these techniques.

  21. I’m also traveling while doing this square of “the traveling afghan”. I carefully did a copy and paste to a word processing doc and printed out the instructions before I left home.
    Noticed it wasn’t working & now see the various corrections.
    Can you highlight where there have been corrections, so we beginning knitters don’t have to read thru each line on 4 double spaced pages to see what matches the original and what has changed.

    1. Hi! It’s a bit hard to do that because I’m not really sure I remember what I changed. There was definitely something on row 7 and 16. And I think it was row 50 that had a wrong stitch count. But other than that it was just editing typos. Sorry about the confusion and sorry about not responding sooner. I’m away on holiday with my family.

  22. Can you highlight the various corrections, so I can update the copy of original instructions that I printed before I left home ? I’m traveling and don’t have access to copy and reprint.

    1. Hi! It’s a bit hard to do that because I’m not really sure I remember what I changed. There was definitely something on row 7 and 16. And I think it was row 50 that had a wrong stitch count. But other than that it was just editing typos. Sorry about the confusion and sorry about not responding sooner. I’m away on holiday with my family.

  23. The square is beautiful but definitely not for beginners. I knitted and had to undo it at least 20 times. It was way to hard for me. I eventually did it without the lace section.

  24. I feel like a moron…. I’m slipping the first stitch moving yarn to front and k to end and every row grows by one stitch which I don’t think is right but I can’t tell because there isn’t a note about how many stitches should be in each row. someone help please I should be able to do this….how embarrassing hahah

    1. Hi Annie. I hate not being able to figure something out. There are always 45 sts, on every. So you should definitely not be increasing. Have you seen the video? It should how to do the sl1 wyf. Maybe it will clarify things

  25. I have never used a chart before, so I hope this question isn’t stupid, but studying the chart it looks like the / should be ssk and the \ should be k2tog ?

      1. ok on the written instructions on row 19 after you have M1L there is k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk the chart symbols after M1L are: \ (ssk), YO, k1 YO, / (k2tog) ? Am I reading it backwards?

  26. Well, charts are usually read from right to left in odd rows and left to right on even rows. So the written instructions do match the chart, but maybe not visually. Does that make sense?

  27. By row 43 I had 2 stitches left between marker 1 & 2, and 3 & 4. So after knitting the row I had 1 stitch left between the markers. Row 45 still says to knit to 2 before marker and skpo, but since I have 1 stitch I can’t. Did I mess up somewhere, or does that seem correct? If it’s correct should I just knit that stitch?

    Thank you so much for your beautiful pattern! I’ve always crocheted and am new to knitting, your pattern has taught me so much, and I so relate to the story behind your square! I feel the same way about my girls!

    1. Well, before row 43 you should have 3 sts in between the side markers – 2 after knitting it. Then after row 45 you will have 1 like the note says. Maybe you miscounted and you’re actually on row 45? Either way, you should be able to complete it by simply working the chart or chart instructions.

  28. Hi, I am struggling here on row 15 and 17. when I sl then M1l theres not a knitted stitch to pull up because the sl1 isn’t knitted. Row 17 is the same. After i do row 19 i have huge holes because of YO. I have taken these rows out about 5 times now. Can you be little more detailed on 15, 17, 19 please. Thank you JoAnn

    1. Hi JoAnn. Have you watched the video? It tells you exactly how to do the M1L and YO and I actually go over those exact rows. Please watch it to clarify all of your doubts. You can find it here on this post or on YouTube.

  29. Hola Sandra!

    Felicitaciones por tu preciosa familia y por un bloque tan especial. Al principio tuve algunas dudas, pero la verdad que ha sido un placer inmenso. Algunas cosas las sabia, como los M1 y ssk. Pero la verdad que me llevo de esta experiencia con tu hermoso trabajo una enseñanza que me queda para siempre. Habia algunas puntadas que ni conocía y me quede sumamente encantada al terminar, de lo lindo que quedo y de lo que aprendí en un bloque. Te estoy sumamente agradecida, porque creo que aprender algo nuevo siempre es enriquecedor. Mi hija se reía porque al principio yo estaba “pero que es este punto” y al final, lo logre y creo que tu esfuerzo en hacer algo único, mas allá de lo convencional, demuestra que con ganas se puede. Asique mil gracias, por lo que yo llamo el árbol de la vida. Me transmite eso. Ha sido un gusto poder conocer tu trabajo. Un cariño grande desde Buenos Aires y a disfrutar de la familia y las lanas.

    1. 😭😭 eres un amor! Gracias por tu mensaje que me haz hecho el día! 🥰😍Y que gozo que hayas aprendido algo y visto algo nuevo como la oportunidad perfecta para aprender! 😘😘

  30. Hello Sandra –

    Your pattern is a beauty and I love the symbolism of your family! With that said, I’m still attempting to master the new lace stitches that are new to me. Your video is very helpful, however, I have a question on row 5 with your comment in parentheses. Which two stitches????( I am reading sl1, p1, sl1 which equals a total of 3 stitches.) I’m confused.

    Your instructions read:
    Sl1 wyf, k3, PM, k17, PM, sl1, p1, sl1 (these 2 sts will be slipped purlwise with yarn in the back from here on), PM, k17, PM, k4, turn.

    (I may have just figured it out: Your telling me that any sl1 stitches OR any p1 stitches from now on are slipped purlwise.) Is this correct??

    Also, I’ve ripped out the lace portion….again and watched the video several times as well as taken notes. My ML1 stitches leans to the right correctly, however, my MR1 stitches look more like a thorn bush 🙂 and maybe a few hovering aphids nibbling holes in it too. My bad, not yours!

    Tenacity is my middle name and I’m loving the challenge! I see where several knitters have created their squares so that fact is very encouraging! Thanks for your clarification! Paula

    1. I’m glad you like the square! Now, let’s see.
      Purl stitches are not really slipped, they are purled. So the 2 sts that I am taking about when I say that they will be slipped purlwise are the 2 slip stitches on that section. Those 2 slip stitches will be slipped purlwise on every even row. Sorry for not being clear, I thought it was obvious but I can see how it can be confusing.
      So remember that not ALL slip stitches will be slipped purlwise. Some like in ssk or skpo are slipped knitwise like the instructions say.
      And I hope you figure out the m1r. I learned it from a purlsoho tutorial with drawings. Maybe it will be more helpful to you than my video.
      Happy knitting!

  31. Thank you for Square 2. I was lucky in that I chose to make the crocheted square first, so all the corrections to the pattern were done when I started the knit square. I had no problems aside from one tiny error that won’t show after assembly (I knitted the first stitch instead of slipping on one row). I’ve enjoyed reading each designer’s story of the symbolism worked into the patterns. My square is on the blocking board, ready for assembly.

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